It is an old and familiar subject, but Jørgen Boesgaard will now still share his experience with other campers.
See the following article from Jørgen Boesgaard, where he finds his refrigerator in the caravan has heatstroke, “cooler not good enough to comestible can stay”.
We were Hesselhus camping at Silkeborg in week 30, the weather was super and very warm.
We are probably many who have tried under more southern broad degrees temperature around 30 gr, where the fridge is working overtime and it pinches tremendously and meet recommended 5 gr, This week was no exception.
I had turned on the fridge the day before departure, packed frozen products in the refrigerator to fl. days, but upon arrival at Hesselhus after barely 4 hour journey, everything was thawed and the temperature was uncomfortably loud.
Good advice was now rotten and it was the food too soon, if I did not get time in the refrigerator again.
As the first, was and tjække on the burner worked - el. the heater worked and the, it did, but the cooling fins in the fridge, nearest to heat rather than cool, acidic something had to be done.
Unfortunately I could not do something here and now, it had to wait until we got home again.
Fortunately for the grandkids were put, there was time to Google a little on any. failure fridge.
Bla. Here in this and other forum was good advice and download.
One of the suggestions was and unplug the refrigerator and turn it upside down and let it stand overnight, This was immediately made after return, unfortunately Hobby (425 m. end køkken) asked the fridge on the floor and built the rest of the caravan around the fridge.
Well you are well craftsman.
The kitchen was separated, so that the refrigerator could be pulled out sideways, already here, I could see the Hobby had not spent much time to follow the installation instructions from Electrolux.
The refrigerator was turned upside down, fluid (ammoniakken) chuckled merrily, so there was hope ahead.
As written was the installation of the refrigerator is not as prescribed, idea the distance from the rear wall to the cooling coil was approximately 4 cm from the stop located on the cooling coil, This means that the air circulation stops and does not cool.
I started with and mount some lists on edge of the back wall so that the factory set distance was observed, a list across the lower edge of the upper vent and a bottom, Now there was just a small box, 30 mm flamingo was put in, after a 1 mm aluminum plate as the rear wall towards the burner – cooling coil, my fridge is the type that can stand above a wheel arch, So with a large notch in the rear, here was fitted with an aluminum plate from the bottom and up to the rear edge of the refrigerator at an angle of approximately 45 gr. This avoids the "pocket" that act as an air trap, and help to destroy the chimney effect.
The day after, the refrigerator again reversed, put the power to, Now we only had to wait a few hours, for then and measure the temperature if it was going down.
give, the fridge worked again.
Now the refrigerator back into place, little exciting if I now had measured correctly and my new made back wall was ok, it was the, Unfortunately I forgot to take another photo, but now stood cooling coil and heat the unit up the back wall as it should, Now the passage is sufficiently narrow that the air is forced up through the spiral and not next to.
Euratom pages were Silet by gene assembly if necessary. holes at floor was also closed, so that the space behind the refrigerator is completely closed except for the ventilation grilles.
Another error from Hobby's side is that the top grating is not superior to the cooling fins, but this is well known in many CV, Kåge when the plates are mounted on top of the refrigerator, here I made an aluminum plate which ended near the upper edge of the hole to the grid, and finished from close by the fridge, Now could air only go from the bottom of the fridge and out at the top, one thus provide a good chimney effect.
All this adds another plus, we are probably many who recognize whooshing and drag / cold around the refrigerator in winter, this is now over a closed chapter.
It was time to try on the fridge now seemed like it should, next day morning temp in the fridge 4,5 gr. Yes, it seems, but alas when temperaruren during the day rose to 28 gr, , only 15 gr. in the fridge.
OK, there MAY be a mistake more.
I removed the heatsink inside the fridge, Here saved sinner himself.
Behind the heatsink sits a 21mm tube, approximately. 40 cm shaped as a lying U, interface Mellen cooling pipes and heat sink is about. 1mm (Try and put a 2 crowns on edge of a table, so you can see how little contact there is) providing a cooling transfer surface of 4cm / 2 is not much in my opinion (has worked with cooling) which may be made a pair of cooling plates distribution, after an hour's work in the milling bench in I made 2 paragraph heatsinks, consisting of two half-shells of 15 cm fits exactly on the outside of the cooling tube and having a contact surface against the heat sink on 16 mm x 150 mm, This now gives a contact area of 48 cm/2, = 11 x greater cooling surface.
The cooling plates were smeared with heating / cooling paste to ensure an optimal transfer within the cooling plate was again refitted.
Now it was my little experiment stand the test, the fridge was switched to gas operation and the highest power.
Outside temperature at. 13.30 was on 26 gr the same wrong for the fridge, which was not long before I could read on the thermometer the temperature dropped, that. Every six minutes the temperature dropped 0,1 gr, pM. 19.00 the temperature inside the refrigerator decreased to 5,4 gr, outside temp 24,6 gr.
What must be said and be very satisfactory and therefore it must be noted, a camping fridge that works for 60 years old principles, really works and cool, but it requires first and foremost that the refrigerator is installed 100% correctly.
here at. 22.00 the internal temperature of the refrigerator 3 gr.
I have now removed the inner kølerib plate, behind this hiding it “horizontal U” tube, which shall transfer the cold to kølerib plate, thereby cooling the refrigerator.
The tube is about. 21 mm i diameter, about the same diameter as on a 2 krone.
If you put a 2 crown up for grabs on a table top and looks at how much, or rather where LITTLE 2 crown touches the tabletop, you will see that the call interface, it will be difficult to transport / transfer from the cold “The” tube to kølerib- plate.
The higher the outside temperature, the difficult it becomes for the fridge to follow to maintain the desired temperature inside the refrigerator at approximately. 5 grader.
This is solely due to the higher outside temperature, the more heat must be generated in the heating element to create more cooling, but here the problem arises, if there is produced too much heat compared to the cold, which can be sold inside the fridge.
So begins amoniakken, is used as a coolant to boil with damage to the refrigerator to follow. It was the, happened to me.
Here it is that my two cold-conferring plates come in and fix the problem, with the lack of transfer of cold from “The” tube to plate kølerib.
At the top of the “The” tube is one cold-transfer plate. On the bottom, it is not installed. The “white” the tube is a paste, which helps and transfer the cold. It is clear to see how great tactile difference is between the two tubes.
In the picture there is a very thin black horizontal line, This black line is EVERYTHING cooling tube has contact to the heatsink, in my first post seen a cooling track and a sign black line which illustrate, the black line on the photo.
The picture also shows clearly how much more cooling rail in contact with cooling pipes and heat sink
Refrigerated rail increases the cooling area 11 times, which means that the cooling capability is improved while maintaining the gas / electricity consumption is considerably reduced!
A usually by heating and cooling, To obtain a good conductivity, there must be good contact, -There is not the, creates a “insulation”, causing poor efficiency. Therefore also uses heating / cooling paste from example. Danfoss, but basically MUST be good contact.
My own fridge is a Elktrolux and I can be good reasons not 100% sure about Dometic and Electrolux are identical, although I have a great suspicion, because Dometic has taken over Elktrolux production of CV refrigerators.
Do you have a refrigerator that will not cooling optimally when it is hot, can I “hot” recommend to mount a set of cooling plates.
Along with the heat sink, you get a detailed description, how you mount the heat sink and how to check, if your refrigerator is properly installed from factory, which unfortunately is very often not the case.
Not even against the task, I help you with installation, can Jørgen Boesgaard contacted via phone. 21600965 or pr. mail email@example.com
If I can be of assistance, I make like a set køleoverførings plates at a cost of 300,- kr. + possibly. assembly or shipping.
Congratulations on your purchase of refrigerated rail for your caravan refrigerator.
Radiator rail will when installed to ensure a highly efficient transfer of cold from the radiator hose to the heatsink, due to the Ca. 15 times larger cooling surface.
This improves the refrigerator ability also to cool effectively in the hot summer periods.
As a side benefit by the increased efficiency, the refrigerator is also more economical in operation, both gas and electric operation.
Be very careful, that on and mount the freezer plate, pay special attention to, the / the thin capillary tube is stuck into a groove in the top of the heatsink, it has sensors to the refrigerator operating thermostat.
The cooling plate is fastened with some screws, these removed and the heatsink carefully pulled vertically and mounted in reverse order, When you've ensured that the cooling rail has proper contact with the cooling tube.
Clean the cooling pipe and heat sink for residues of old pasta, remove any. a little bit of foam along cooling pipes, so that the cooling rail can get decent contact on cooling pipes, of butter if necessary. a bit Danfoss cooling / heating paste in a thin layer on the inside of the cooling rail, (thermal paste to the CPU can also be used) pressure then cooling rail in place, on the refrigerator cooling pipes, remove back and look at "the image - the imprint" there is contact in the middle of cooling the rail throughout the length, it is ready to be fitted.
OBS. In some refrigerators, there is a risk of, to cool the rail will NOT be 100 % close to the radiator hose, due to the fastening points for aluminum heatsink, is so close to the radiator hose to cool the rail can not get proper contact with the cooling tube.
In cases where the cooling rail "knight" in the fastening points must be ground in the cooling rail next to each point until the cooling rail forms the, otherwise the cooling rail NOT.
Note: A condition for that you will get optimal use of cooling rail, is that your refrigerator is 100 % properly fitted from the factory, as it has been found, some caravan manufacturers particularly in the older vehicles have failed to mount the mounting kit to the refrigerator.
To verify this,, that there should NOT be noticeable feature, above or below the refrigerator inside the vehicle (best felt in the outer season when it's cool and who is hot on the bandwagon and possibly. slightly windy conditions)
Check for. also by shining a powerful torch into the page through ventilation grilles (grilles must be removed) Go Dark caravan and light entering at the top and the bottom from the outside through the openings in the fridge, there can be seen lighting inside the vehicle around the refrigerator, shall tætnes, also be checked whether there is mounted baffle, especially at the top between the refrigerator and any. kogeø, the bottom is often drilled large holes in the closet where possible. heat long runs behind the refrigerator, there must NOT be hollow around the hose and possibly. wires, to create the adjacent.
see also. refrigerator mounting instructions supplied with the caravan from new.
Big thanks to Jørgen Boesgaard for the beautiful article.
See relevant links to fridges:
- Link: Repair and improvement of the motor home refrigerators
- Link: Do you manage your gas refrigerator in the caravan
- Link: Refrigerators compressor refrigerator in kabe caravan
- Link: Køeleskabe absorption in caravans
- Link:Repair of Refrigerator
- Link:Gas operation and Refrigerator