Over 8.500 Users have contributed their vote on caravaninfo.dk. For installation of Mover see the voting results as follows:
|Have you installed your mover?||Voice percent from Caravaninfo.dk Poll|
|I myself have installed my mover||26.98%|
|I have not installed my mover||54.84%|
|I thought it was easy even to mount||17.16%|
|I thought it was very||1.03%|
Mounts to its Mover, get knowledge of the entire system. The advantage is you can maintain your Mover, for example, if the distance to the tires should be adjusted and lubrication, etc.. possibly. later debugging is also easier, as you know installation and construction Mover. As DIY (Driveway fitter) you should expect it takes all in all ca. 3-4 timer.
You can choose if you mount your mover should be front axle or behind the axle – See below the advantages and disadvantages:
In front of the shaft:
•Advantage: there is not enough water and dirt on the mover
•Udlempe: it has a greater chance of being damaged if you hit a curb or rock
•Udlempe: would often mover have a lower ground clearance
•Udlempe: if the mover is affected there is a risk of the mover is pushed against the tire
Behind the shaft:
•Advantage: there is often more headroom
•Advantage: If the caravan is nose heavy, it may reduce the weight bit by fitting behind the shaft
•Advantage: if the mover is hit it will be pushed back, and away from the wheel
It is recommended mover is mounted behind the shaft.
DIY: INSTALLATION OF ENDURO MOVER
Lars and Karin have even installed a mover on their Kabe. Here you can see how you can fit a mover in his caravan.
How can you mount a mover
Lars & Karin says:
Like so many others, we have chosen to mount a mover on our Kabe, both because the 1,5 tons caravan is not the easiest and push around, but also because in many places, it can be difficult to get into the carriage, on parcellerne.
We move our truck 2 times per year, but when we move the, we have always at home for some time, For the careful cleaning, and at home it is certainly not easy and get it towed around, since our driveway has a slope of 9% and one should around a building wall corner , it went well enough until now, but it is not easy .
Enduro move Pupleline, serie 2
We have chosen one one Pupleline Enduro mover, serie 2 med modelnr. EM4444, it has a number of improvements from the first model, the first models had chain drive, which was not successful, therefore now gone over to the gear / gear, and at the same time, the exchange has improved, and some other things are improved.
And then there's also the little things, it is an inexpensive mover, which, despite Values, is recommended by many.
Enough about that, let’s get rocking
The whole event weighs about. 37 kg, and come in 2 cardboard boxes, are packed very logical and easily manageable, one box contains the motors, and nothing else, but considering also ca. 21 kg, the second elongate cardboard box, includes all other equipment.
However, the straight note, that on some chassis must be some additional bracket for, this has not been the case here (they must be ordered separately), which included a drawing, which can also be seen here on the left, if the objectives here are not respected, you must use extra brackets, for mounting to the correct height.
In the supplied installation instructions, there is a very clear drawings, with illustrations of all, what the boxes must contain, and the number of units of each. Installation instructions are also also divided into chapters, with the mechanical and electrical installation, and not least a lot of warnings about, What not to do .
Note that the mover can be mounted behind the axle, but also ahead, manual prescribes front axle, but in our case we will get kambolage with a shock absorber, so therefore the mounted behind the axle.
The first step is the mechanical installation, which means getting hung up the engines, motors come, as 2 independent units, which are hung up separately, and then they are “associated” Two tværstænger, on one cross bar (the store), is simply to control and maintain the motors, and the thinner one, the connecting coupling of the mover, connection takes place mechanically with an angle lizard, and in that it is connected across, you can connect both sides simultaneously, No matter what side you stand on.
The engine is not exactly the easiest, and there's not much space game, so our small workshop jack from Uncle Harold, was a huge help. Once the engine is up to hang, and the bracket is set loose on, so it is very easy and put both crossbars on, remember not to tighten anything yet, just with the fingers.
When everything is assembled and up and hanging, shall motors adjusted ind, in the accompanying's 2 small metal blocks, these can be inserted between the drive roller and covered, the motor is pushed toward the block, so it can work with, that's the only way 20mm clearance, engines should also Saetta correct sidevejs, it can clearly advisable and see installation video, there are some good tips. There are also some Excelent illustrations in the manual.
The manual is also also described how many Nm the bolts must be tightened with, it may therefore be beneficial and have a torque wrench.
This very mechanical installation took about. 1½ time.
An important caveat that needs to be said and taken seriously right from the start of – CUT NOTHING OF WIRING – the wires must be exactly the same length, otherwise moverne come to pull unevenly, when one of the engines will have more power than the other.
Next step is the electrical installation, it was for our case, >> Hampered<< af en vandbåren gulvvarme, det var dog ikke værre, end at vi kunne bore hul, lige ved siden af et hul der var der fra fabrikken af, men pas på!, der kan jo også være gasrør, vanger, og andre elektriske installationer der løber under bunden.
The manual stipulates that one must drill a hole of about. 25mm, I can not see any reason, idet de 4 motor cables fills ca. 12mm in total, I therefore chose to drill a 13mm hole.
Then we have led the wires from the motors and to the hole, it is recommended to run wires, from each motor to the middle of the caravan, and then toward the hole, we have not fully followed this, because as I said water underfloor heating in the cart, and we do not know 100% security, in which the tubes down, so it is not just and screw something. But the main thing is, that all 4 conduits are of equal length.
In the pictures below shows the completed wiring.
Cable routing front axle
Wiring behind the axle
Next step is to get the electrical mounted, Remember to disconnect power, and take boats + and – battery.
In our case, both the battery and booster mounted in advance, and this part is therefore not included.
Kontrolboksen til moving, should be between 30 and 60 cm away from the battery, it gave some problems for us to get it fitted with this distance, so therefore we had to compromise, and mount it inside the magazine, i siddegruppen, which destroys little storage space, but there is nothing to do about that.
The control box is screwed, and you can now squeeze sod on the motor wires, but remember to get them fitted properly, each cable has a unique number, as you can see the line, where it is mounted on the engine. There are accessory small yellow markeringsclips, which is put on the cord with the correct number, it is very important, to get these numbered correctly, otherwise you can burn all the muck of.
The picture below on the left shows the control box retrofitted with wires. The image next to the, show magazine with battery, kontrolboks, and the fabriksmonterede fuse box to both 220 and 12V system.
Before you connect power system, we must have mounted a safety switch and not least a fuse, til hele moving, we start with the safety switch, placement of the, shall be suitably, in the sense that one must be able to get to the, and you could use his caravan, without going and be afraid to come to damage the, and of course, like near the battery.
We have placed tripped just inside the door, it was the ideal place, in our wagon. In the picture to the right, shows the location, disconnect the rear, where the power cables are attached, is protected by the seat backrest group Winter, so even if you use the hatch into the end of the bench, then you will not be able to contact with the power cables. And at the same time, then projecting the switch staying inside the door frame, so as to be known to be more than unfortunate to hit the.
The hole for the switch was drilled with a spade bit DeWalt, make sure you buy a drill of good quality, it is so shame if the dirt thoroughfares, and furnishings in a caravan is not exactly the most massive.
The purpose of this safety switch, is naturally and prevent unintended use of the mover, mover can not be activated unless the key is inserted into the switch and turned around.
Now tripped on space, However, to ensure that there can be no short circuits or other debris, we must have a fuse between the safety and control box, moving har en maks. load of about. 84 amp., the security here is mounted is a 100 amp. fuse.
Box and fuse seen in the picture below.
Now the cables can be connected, The control box is where paragraph. 1 – 4, these are the numbers that will be used by the motor of the, but note that it does not matter whether the engines are mounted front axle or rear axle, so why look in the manual, and read to the numbers cables must be connected.
Connect to last 12V + and – the control box, and refit the cable terminals on the battery.
When there is power on, the control box will make a self-control, and whew, all the lights came on and went out again, so everything was OK, nice, Then, just and press on the remote control, and see the control box lights green, indicating that it is ready to move caravan.
We have mounted mover while our car down with awning, but that one can easily test that it works, just remember and charge being that connect it to.
Finally, remember to seal the hole through floorpan, so no moisture up.
Overall, the electrical installation took approximately. 2½ time, so all in all about. 4 timer, and there has not been stressed at any time.
and remember, safety first, although it is 12V, then there's roar on!.
Big thanks to Lars & Karin for the excellent article. See more articles on Lars and Karin's own website. :click here, and see more articles on Lars and Karin's own website.
If you do not have the courage, To mount your Mover, offers several camping workshops to mount Mover.
Join the facebook group camping, Equipment & Technology which deals with everything about: Camping, Caravans, Caravan Movere, Equipment & Technical.
A hygelig group is for all, and where there is help available- Click on the link or image and join the group: Facebook Group