Renovation of Truma Caravan Mover, Model SE year. 2008
This is very hard on the mover engine / transmission houses, as well for many types mover is made of aluminum, over time, may start irre, it may come to look very tiresome out, if it is not stopped in time.
In this little "guide" we show how a five years old Truma SE mover sets have come to look for "so soon" under a caravan, and how does something elbow grease can get to look fairly respectable again.
Caravanner I bought the set of've used the wagon for year-round camping, and finally which is situated. The kit is purchased as defective, where the controller did not work.
Now let's get started ... 🙂
First div. covers and shields removed, and here came the first challenge… shield covering the electric motor is stuck with three screws.
One of int. side, and two into the end of the cover, all three had settled to a fixed time, the broken when tried to loosen them, despite the use of various. rust / screw loose.
The arrows indicate the three location skruers.
And what do you do then just when all screws to hold the shield is broken ... in this case I chose to try to pierce the inner. screw out, and cutting new threads to a 6mm bolt.
One must be very careful when to drill a steel screw into something aluminum, drill can very easily "slip off" to the side, and here, where there is not much to give the can end out of which is not material to cut the threads in.
This time it worked, however.. 😉
The two screws inserted in the end cap, as well and so broken, I have chosen not to drill out as they sit at the end of the electric motor, that will very easily could linger drill cuttings into the electric motor, which is of course a huge magnet.
Here you can easily cause damage to the coil.
At the two red arrows stick the rest of the two small screws on the end of the electric motor.
On the side of the transmission sits the yellow marking "arrow" and a side cover, the yellow arrow can be gently pried off with a screwdriver, and sidedækselet stuck using three locking pins, tabs can with a mandrel forced through the cover, after which it can be detached.
Transmission / engine must now be removed from the mounting frame, and here one must again work a bit cautious, there can, if the mover kit is older, be formed very ir makes it very difficult to get the two glidedorne (below by gulpil) pressed out, they should in my opinion be squeezed out with a kind of presses. Transmissions housing is made of aluminum as VERY easily crack or skip by you settle on it.
The two rear bolts that hold the coupling console is detached too careful, they are locked with screw locking, and secured (including red willow)
NOTE til de to glidedorne (above by gulpil): you can even choose which way they should be squeezed out, a screw located on both sides, so that if one takes one or the other, is up to oneself dependent on, how to get it set up the baler to spend.
WOULD LIKE TO PRESENT steady In RENOVATION AGAIN WARN ABOUT THE TWO GLIDEDORNE MAY SIDE unwavering VERY FAST, AND INCLUDING SHOWING WHAT CAN HAPPEN IF YOU TRYING TO BEAT / KNOCK THEM OUT ... I do not dispute ACHIEVE THIS BY PRESS THEM OUT, SO IF YOU FEEL THAT YOU DO NOT HAVE OR HAVE ACCESS TO THE RIGHT TOOL, THEN TRY AT CONTACT A CARAVAN CENTER, ABOUT THE MAYBE COULD HELP YOU ON WITH PROJECT.
INCLUDING SKRÆKSENEARRIET ... !!!!
ALU. THE HOUSE IS CRACKED ALL THE WAY THROUGH ... 🙁 (Price today my. 3700kr.)
Now ... we must proceed with the project
The roller which is pressed against the tire on the caravan made very easy by, end cap removed with a small screwdriver, and roller sidder with a locking ring, Also located on the shaft a groove which fits into a keyway in the roll, de to dele, roll & not, can now be cleaned and stored for mounting… shaft I have wallpaper in just to protect it a bit.
Arming the console can also be removed using the following emergency override key, this key must / can be used to disengage the rollers by example. power failure.
In this case, I use it to unscrew the bracket as far as possible, at a point can top does not reach the shaft more, then one by one 12V battery or power supply "run" console of the final steps ... O.B.S. the current direction, if the console starts running again swap you just about on + and -
NOTE also to this: do not use 12V at the start when the console must be run by, have incorrect connection, the small electric motor "drag" in the console, og her skulle der for de (after signing) first models danger of crushing the small gears inside the transmission, which was then made of plastic.
One way of, and the other way on ... 🙂
Up under the console sits a rubber sleeve and a small "buffer" also in rubber on the shaft, the two parts can now be cleaned and stored away for retrofitting.
The shaft here, I also have wallpaper in to protect this.
Now I have decided not to stand / disconnecting more, so now there sanded plastered and painted 🙂
For grinding I have chosen to use a 3M sanding sponge that can be put on the drill, can of course also use a wire brush on the drill, here did 3M sponge for me worked really well.
Some places I had to of course, use sandpaper M. M.
The paint I have chosen to use the Hammerite, without hammerefekt, it is available both for brush and spray, though somewhat more expensive.
I will brush the af 3 laps, first a layer Primer, and then two layers Metal Paint, so you can get a thick layer on which should last at least five more years 🙂
Here below some pictures of the painting process 🙂
Her over transmission B klar til Primer
Below console that has been Primer
Including the transmission by B 1. transition metal paint
Before it all to be together again, I just clean the terminals and controls the coal at the large electric motors, This is done in this Truma model very easy, the small door covering the pole can be pushed backwards, where then the coal is almost automatically jump out of the engine (depends somewhat on how much is worn kulet).
So we better get it together…
First run end bracket cautious on the shaft, the first few cm by 12 V, until emergency key can grab.
NOTE: console should NOT be tightened all the way down, it may be necessary to lift up the transmission of the mounting frame in order to adjust glidedorn holes to fit with the elongated guide track in the mounting frame.
The shaft well lubricated with grease, but by then put the small rubber pad over the shaft, so it abuts mod rented the and circlip (gulpil), it should not be printed or pressed firmly.
Below console with rubber sleeve ready to get back into position ...
Above is why it is important to adjust so that the holes fit glidedornen, mandrel could get to page skew the hole.
The set up of the mounting frame was for me here very easily, they could be cleaned with a wire brush, and then greased up with a good layer of fat, here I had chosen copper grease, which is also used for brake repairs / cleaning of cars caravans M. M.
Including mounting frame ready with fat and it all ...
When all bolt and glidedorn holes fit in the mounting frame, unscrew the two bolts in the end bracket, Remember here to clean the bolts completely, otherwise the new screw hedge ...
Glidedornene and the small screws cleaned too so they are ready for installation with new screw locking.
Above the bolts in the end bracket and the one glidedorn attached again, glidedornene are also well lubricated into the copper paste in the hope they do not put so much stuck again.
The hole I have as good as possible tried to clean with something emery cloth, I could when mounting press glidedornene in finger.
The small screws screwed careful also with new screw locking, they must not be tightened so much.
The cleaned roller can now also be installed, Also here I have just spent a little acid-free grease
The cover page and the yellow marking arrow can now easily be reapplied, Also the cover of the end of the roll may come ...
Above and below the fitting of side cover gulmarkerings arrow and the cover on the roll.
Above can also be seen that the cover over the large electric motor is set loose on, Here I have on the inside had to use a 6mm bolt with a slightly larger washer, which should push a larger area on the cover.
This is of course based on the cover can not be screwed to the end of the electric motor longer because the two small screws there is also broken.
It was as a renovation of a set Truma SE caravan mover, hope that the reading material and the images can be used by others who would like to shine a mover set up a little.
The progress mode is the course the same by the transmission to the other,, but before I started transmission A has I will of course take a few before and after pictures ... 🙂
Morten Soelberg who performed the renovation and caravaninfo.dk disclaims any responsibility for damage or mover equipment of any kind, when attempting to follow this guide.
Big thanks to Morten Soelberg for the beautiful article.
Mover mounting instructions
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